Optimization of antioxidant activities, bioactive compound profiles and in-vitro efficacy of Barleria lupulina Lind for cosmeceutical topical application

Barleria lupulina Lindl., colloquially referred to as “Penawar Seribu Bisa,” is a member of the Acanthaceae family. It has been a traditional remedy among indigenous communities in northern Malaysia, revered for its efficacy in treating various ailments owing to its rich medicinal properties and plethora of bioactive compounds. The objective of this study is to assess the antioxidant properties of B. lupulina leaves, elucidate the presence of bioactive compounds, and explore their potential application in cosmeceutical formulations. The assessment of antioxidant activities involved a combination of conventional and modern extraction techniques, including Soxhlet Extraction (SE), Ultrasound-Assisted Extraction (UAE), and Microwave-Assisted Extraction (MAE). Statistical analysis utilized both the One Variable At Time (OVAT) approach and Response Surface Methodology (RSM) to obtain the optimal conditions for extracting the highest levels of antioxidant bioactive compounds. Various antioxidant assay methods were employed, encompassing Total Phenolic Content (TPC), Total Flavonoid Content (TFC), as well as 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) and 2,2’-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (ABTS) assays. The findings revealed Microwave-Assisted Extraction (MAE) as notably an efficient technique, with optimal extraction conditions identified as 80% ethanol at 600 W for 30 seconds. A comprehensive analysis utilizing Ultra-High- Performance Liquid Chromatography-Quadrupole Time-of-Flight Mass Spectrometry (UHPLC-QTOF/MS), Gas Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry (GCMS), and Fourier-Transform Infrared Spectroscopy (FTIR) successfully identified 26 compounds with both cosmetic and medicinal properties. The toxicity evaluation utilizing Inductively Coupled Plasma-Mass Spectrometry (ICP-MS) revealed that the concentration of metals remains within acceptable limits. Additionally, the Brine Shrimp Lethality Assay (BSLA) demonstrated no mortality effects from the extracts on brine shrimp. Thus, these findings affirm the non-toxicity of the B. lupulina leaf extracts. A functional cosmetic analysis using in vitro method demonstrated that the extracts may serve as natural photoprotective agents and natural inhibitors of tyrosinase, collagenase and elastase. In therapeutic assessment, the extracts demonstrated anti-inflammatory activities by increasing of interleukin-10 and decreasing of interleukin-6 and interleukin-8. The extracts may facilitate wound healing by showing cell migration as early 4 hours after injury and fully close after 24 hours treatment. The comprehensive development and characterization of the cosmeceutical formulation demonstrated that the facial serum had favorable textural qualities and desirable rheological properties, making it a promising potential in enhancing skin conditions. This innovative approach to formulating cosmeceuticals, particularly through the incorporation of active ingredient sourced from B. lupulina leaf extracts, has led to the creation of highly effective products with significant benefits for skin health. These advancements hold great promise for the cosmeceutical industry, offering valuable ingredients derived from plant-based materials.

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